okPLANTtrees - Resources - Educational

Planting your Shrub

When to Plant in Western Oklahoma
Container grown shrubs can be planted at any time of year. Early spring is a great time for planting all shrubs, especially after our last freeze. The plants can establish quickly while the temperatures are still cool. If you plant in the late spring and summer, expect the shrub to have a higher water demand until it has a chance to root out into your soil. Initially, the original ball of dirt is the only area from which your shrub can get water. Plan to water your new shrub everyday for at least the first two weeks until it has a chance to root into your soil. For fall planting, choose shrubs that are very winter hardy. Shrubs that are winter sensitive need time to establish before facing their first winter. Winter sensitive plants include shrubs like crape myrtles, hydrangeas and most broadleaf evergreens. While these plants can be planted in the fall, you will have an increased risk of damage or loss if we have a harsh winter.

Preparing the Hole
Choosing native plants and plants that are well adapted to our conditions will allow you to plant without adding amendments to your soil. For plants that demand better conditions, since the root area of shrubs is not huge you can amend the soil with compost and peat moss. Simply mix the amendments into the soil around where you plan to plant. Since plants generally will not do well in straight compost or peat, be sure to mix the amendments into the soil; it is possible to get too much of a good thing. We choose plants that we love and want to grow. We make a special place where the soil can be amended and where we can easily give extra water for those plants that need more pampering, then use native and adapted plants in our main landscape. This kind of strategy will allow you to grow a wide variety of plants while still maintaining a relatively low maintenance landscape.

Planting your Shrub
Grab your shrub at the base near the soil and lift it off the ground. Tap sharply on the rim of the container. Alternatively, turn the plant upside down and, holding the soil ball, sharply tap the pot rim on a firm object. The pot should come loose.

Look at your root ball. If you don't see many roots growing around the outside of the root ball, the plant hasn't been in that size pot for long. You can simply set the plant down into your hole and fill the dirt back in around the root ball. The soil should just cover the root ball.
	If, on the other hand, there are many roots growing around the outside of the root ball, you want to make it easier for water to penetrate the root ball and for the roots to have better contact with the soil. Slice the root ball up from the bottom about half way and spread apart the lower "flaps".
Mound up some dirt in the bottom of your hole. Set the root ball down into the hole with the "flaps" spread over the mound of dirt. Make sure that there is dirt all the way up under the root ball. Fill the dirt back in around the root ball. The soil should just cover the root ball.
	To help get water directly into the root ball, make a basin around the stem of the plant by mounding up some dirt around it. Water your shrub well when you are finished to eliminate air pockets and settle the soil. In heavy clay soils, water must be able to drain away. More care must be taken to assure that the root area is moist, but does not stand in water more that a couple of hours before it soaks in. If you have standing water problems, add coarse compost to provide more aeration and raise the area so that water can drain away.

References:
Tree Pruning: A Worldwide Photo Guide. Shigo, Alex L. c. 1989. Shigo and Trees Assoc. Durham.